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The Delicious Appreciations of Pick Yin

Not exactly predictable.
Has enough brains for codes
(but can be completely clueless on other more important matters).
Likes her Joe (and her man?) black, her chocolate dark and her food spicy.
“Quam bene vivas refert, non quam diu.” — Seneca

Total Posts   183      Last Updated   16 April 2014 11:00 AM (GMT +8)

Monday, November 28, 2011


Ibrahim's Tom Yam Kung (ต้มยำกุ้ง)



thai tom yam kung


Growing up, I was lucky to have parents who not only cooked well, but never stopped their children from experimenting with food from other cultures. My late father himself loved Indian mutton curry, nasi lemak, beef rendang and a good spicy curry laksa - you see a pattern here, I know. I'm pretty sure my inclination towards spicy food came from him, as my mother, though she loves chili, has neither the tongue nor the stomach for a great deal of it. For a Hakka Chinese family, we ate a great deal of homemade curries and sambal - I once was sent to the emergency room to remove a tiny sliver of lemongrass stuck to the back of my throat. Thus Thai food is no stranger to my diet, and staying in Singapore now makes me miss good Thai from time to time. With a great deal of Thais residing in or marrying into the Malaysian population, my hometown in Kuala Lumpur is practically a Thai cuisine haven. From roadside stalls and mid-range setups to posh restaurants, it is still fairly easy to score a respectable tom yam, raw papaya salad, Thai green curry, noodle salad, pad thai or mango rice pudding when the urge for something way up north kicks in.

thai tom yam kung


During my university years, I lived in campus where each residential hostel has its own late night stalls to cater for hungry students sleeping late after burning the midnight oil. My student college was blessed with a stall operated by a couple of Siamese cooks and let's just say over the four years I was in University of Malaya, a steaming bowl of hot tom yam was really my equivalent of chicken soup for the soul. Towards the final years of my studies, nightly trips out of campus became a ritual. I was also in luck to have a roommate who shared my affliction of love for chilies. In case you're curious to know how messed up we were, let me illustrate - we used to spike our instant noodles and chili tuna sandwiches with birds eye chilies. Once, when we ran out, we went to steal harvest some from a couple of plants at the back of our dorm's dining hall. When we were too lazy to cook, she would drive us out to a food court in Damansara Uptown so we could have our standard nasi goreng cili padi (birds eye chili fried rice) with a bowl of extra spicy seafood tom yam.

thai tom yam kung


Good food brings back memories, and I was reminded of all this when I first had Ibrahim's tom yam kung. Made by my friend Najah, it was thickened with coconut milk, spicy enough to make me sweat and sniffle - just like those nights out in Damansara Uptown years ago - and served over rolls of tagliatelle instead of rice or noodles. Before long, I met Ibrahim, made Najah cook more of his tom yam whenever I dropped by (which was often) and extracted the recipe out of her. That was more than two years ago, as the date of Najah's email indicated. Some recipes are easy to procrastinate over, this one is, especially - as someone else is always making it. I don't even have to bribe Najah with desserts.

thai tom yam kung


Two weeks ago, I finally got my act together and attempted my first tom yam at home. The paste was prepared the night before. The next day Vijay smeared some over his sourdough before I even used it to make the broth. Later for dinner, it began to rain. We got a friend over to share some heat and she polished off her bowl quite quickly despite feeling unwell earlier. I can see now why Najah makes this so often. Once the paste, which can be made ahead in bulk, is gotten out of the way, a pot of comfort, spice and nostalgia is really only a matter of minutes away. So if you're into things like birds eye chilies, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, fish sauce and you-know-what-else, don't do what I did and wait two years to make this.
Ibrahim's Tom Yam Kung (ต้มยำกุ้ง) [Printer Friendly Version]

Recipe adapted from Ibrahim Alsagoff with additional tom yam kung tips from no other than Leela Punyaratabandhu's SheSimmers - How to Make Tom Yam: Tom Yam 101 - Part One and Tom Yam Kung (ต้มยำกุ้ง) with Video.
Serves 4

Notes: The key point in an excellent tom yam kung in my opinion is not to overcook the prawns and boil the fragrant herbs to death. If you're using mushrooms which takes longer to cook than the ones here (for example white or Swiss brown), do add them along with the chicken instead of the prawns. As Leela mentioned, this version is a Nam Khon (creamy broth), you may skip the coconut milk for a Nam Sai (clear broth) or replace it with the more health friendly evaporated milk.

While I've applied some ingredients and method from Leela's approach, this recipe is very much localized so I'm not vouching it as something you would fine in the streets of Thailand, having not been there myself. The tom yam paste here is really a little bit of a Nam Prik Pao (น้ำพริกเผา - Thai Chili Jam), albeit simplified. I am intrigued though, to one day make the Nam Prik Pao using one of Leela's two approach, as nothing excites me more than a versatile jar of spicy chili condiment for those week night quick dinners.

For the prawn stock:
  • 3 1/2 cups chicken/fish stock
  • 4 pieces kaffir lime leaves
  • 2 stalks lemongrass, white parts only, smashed
  • 3 inches ginger, thinly sliced
  • 15-18 large prawns, peeled and cleaned, shells and heads reserved

For the tom yam paste:
  • 3 tablespoons vegetable oil
  • 1 large onion, finely chopped
  • 5 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 2 inches galangal, finely chopped
  • 3 inches ginger, finely chopped
  • 250 grams chili paste (from soaked, deseeded and blended dry chilies)
  • 4 pieces kaffir lime leaves, finely chopped
  • 2 stalks lemongrass, white parts only, finely chopped
  • 2 teaspoons ground coriander
  • 20 grams shrimp paste (or more to taste)
  • 2 tablespoons fish sauce
  • 1 cup tamarind pulp water
  • 3 tablespoons brown sugar
  • vegetable oil for frying
  • 2 tablespoons ground turmeric
  • 2 tablespoons lime juice (or to taste)
  • 4 pieces kaffir lime leaves
  • 1 stalk lemongrass, white parts only, smashed
  • 2 boneless chicken thighs, sliced thinly, marinate with some oil and white pepper
  • 150 grams frozen crab meat, thawed (optional)
  • 250 milliliters coconut milk
  • 300 grams phoenix oyster mushrooms
  • 250 grams straw mushrooms
  • 250 grams enokitake mushrooms (optional)
  • fish sauce to taste
  • 3 sprigs fresh basil, chopped, reserve some for garnish
  • 2 bunches coriander, chopped, reserve some for garnish
  • 2 stalks spring onion, chopped, reserve some for garnish

Prepare the prawn stock: Bring the chicken/fish stock to a boil in a medium pot. Add in the kaffir lime leaves, stalks lemongrass and ginger, stir briefly. Add in reserved heads and shells of the cleaned prawns. Simmer on medium low heat for at least 20 minutes or up to 30 minutes. Set aside to cool, drain just before using.

Prepare the tom yam paste: Heat up tablespoons of oil over high heat. Add in onion, garlic, galangal and ginger, fry till softened and slightly brown. Remove and set aside, leaving the leftover oil in the pan. In the same frying pan, add in the chili paste, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, coriander, shrimp paste, fish sauce, tamarind water and sugar. Cook till mixture thickens slightly. Return the fried onion, garlic and ginger to the pan. Fry till paste is thick and oil from the chili surfaces. Set aside. The paste keeps sealed in the refrigerator for 1 week or freezer for months.

Prepare the tom yam broth: Heat up a medium pot with one tablespoon of oil. Over medium heat, add the prepared tom yam paste and ground turmeric. Fry for about 1 minute. Add in the prepared prawn stock, lime juice, the remaining kaffir lime leaves and lemongrass. Stir to incorporate. Add in the chicken pieces and crab meat (if using). Bring the broth to a boil. Once broth comes to a boil, add in the coconut milk, stir briefly and reduce heat back to medium low so that broth is gently simmering.

Add in the prawns and mushrooms. Cook till prawns firm up and turn just opaque, about 2 minutes. Turn of heat and check the seasoning, adjusting with more lime juice or fish sauce if required. Let the broth cool down a little, and then add in the chopped herbs and spring onion. Serve immediately over cooked rice, egg/laksa noodles or pasta (here I used angel hair/capellini). Garnish with more fresh coriander, basil and spring onion.

Do ahead: The tom yam paste can be made ahead, bottled and chilled. (I actually doubled the paste recipe to have a bottle for next time.) If you're entertaining, you can also marinate the chicken and make the prawn stock the day before (keep the peeled prawns fresh covered under cubes of ice in the fridge). It takes less than 15 minutes to put the broth together once the rest of the components are ready to go.





26 Comments on Ibrahim's Tom Yam Kung (ต้มยำกุ้ง)

Wow wow wow! This is like gourmet tom yam to me! Love the photo of the paste.

Posted by Anonymous Mrs Ergül, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:10:00 PM  

Fabulously spicy and flavorful! A beautiful dish and recipe.

Cheers,
Rosa

Posted by Anonymous Rosa, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:10:00 PM  

in the paste, is both galangal & ginger necessary? can you use just one or the other? it's difficult to get galangal here, & the diff in taste is rather minimal, in my opinion.

Posted by Anonymous Lan, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:10:00 PM  



Pei Lin: Thanks, this is down-to-earth recipe though. I added the crab because our guest doesn't take prawns. Incidentally, that paste photo was a "should-I-or-should-I-not". It was already raining, close to 6PM and the kitchen was dark as night. Shutter speed was 10 seconds for that one.

Rosa: Thank you!

Lan: Galangal was not in my friend Ibrahim's recipe, I believe he used ginger as an easier replacement. However, according to Leela, they are not meant to be interchanged - she goes as far to say if you can't get all the ingredients for the paste you're better off using ready made ones. Traditionally in many Malay sambal recipes, galangal is used. Do you get it at Thai grocers there?

Posted by Blogger Pick Yin, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:11:00 PM  

This recipe brought me back to my trips around south east Asia. How much I love that part of the world. I don't have the ingredients to prepare tonight, so i might order take away. I'm even thinking about using it for my next tapas dinner with friends.

Posted by Anonymous Juan, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:11:00 PM  



Juan: Thank you. I've never met anyone who don't miss South East Asia once they've tasted what it has to offer. Hope you will make this when you get the ingredients and tom yam inspired tapas sounds fabulous.

Posted by Blogger Pick Yin, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:11:00 PM  

I am a hantu chilli too... as we say in Kedah... 'kalau tak pedas berdesiung... memang bukan cili'...
Invitingly good plate of Tom Yum Kung... Love the dark 'mystic' mood photos :D

Posted by Anonymous Lisa H., at Feb 1, 2012, 3:12:00 PM  



Lisa: Oh yes. I can take a lot of heat, as with my late father. Mother always had to suffer our high pedas tolerance. 'Mystic' ah? I wouldn't say that, more like 'malas dan nak makan cepat' heh heh...

Posted by Blogger Pick Yin, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:12:00 PM  

One question!
Do i have realy need 250 grams chili paste? Its sounds like a lot of chili :D

Posted by Anonymous Mylo, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:12:00 PM  

Mylo: If you're worried about hot chili attacks, you can reduce it by just a tablespoon maybe. 250 grams for 4 people is not really a lot, especially if you prepare your own paste and remove the seeds. If you're using ready made ones (not recommended as the quality is always inferior), I'd not go with less than 200 grams.

Posted by Blogger Pick Yin, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:13:00 PM  

This looks delicious. Would love for you to share this with us over at foodepix.com.

Posted by Anonymous Jo, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:13:00 PM  

Thank you for this post. I love the photos and the stories of your family and friends. I have made a batch of the Tom Yam paste, and I am really looking forward to making the soup. That said, I didn't see any indication of how MUCH of the tom yam paste to use.

Posted by Anonymous Tony, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:14:00 PM  



Tony: I hope you will like it as much as I do. Following this recipe, you use up all the paste for the broth. Should you find that too thick to your liking, add a little stock/water to adjust.

Posted by Blogger Pick Yin, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:14:00 PM  

I love Tom Yam so much.. Never had the courage to make one at home.. I think I should just try :D

Posted by Anonymous Neelu, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:14:00 PM  



Neelu: You should. It's not scary to make at home at all, as long as you can find all the necessary ingredients.

Posted by Blogger Pick Yin, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:15:00 PM  

beautiful, beautiful recipe! I will try to make this one!

Posted by Anonymous anh@anhsfoodblog.com, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:18:00 PM  

Thanks Anh! Have fun making it yes?

Posted by Blogger Pick Yin, at Feb 1, 2012, 3:19:00 PM  

Wow! It's looking yummy! By any chance is Ibrahim a Singaporean, who is married to Ruzana, a Malaysian?

Posted by Anonymous Sheikha, at May 30, 2012, 8:30:00 PM  

Sheikha: Yes yes! Are you related to Ibrahim? :D

Posted by Blogger PickYin, at May 30, 2012, 9:02:00 PM  

Yes! He's my cuz. His dad's my mum's brother! Wow! Small world, indeed! I didn't know he makes Tom Yam. Hmmm.. And Najah loves ordering a churros-like dessert of my mum's.

Funny how things click. When I came across Najah's name in your post, she came to mind. But I was thinking.. she can't be the only Najah from M'sia, right? Hahaha and when you mentioned Ibrahim, then it must be! My sis made Najah's son, Idris', Elmo cake 2 years ago..

Posted by Anonymous Sheikha, at May 30, 2012, 10:24:00 PM  

Sheika: Welcome to my blog. Am making another one of Ibrahim's recipe soon.

I remember the Elmo cake even though I didn't get to taste it because Najah put up a picture of its head cut off! :D:D

Posted by Blogger PickYin, at May 31, 2012, 8:12:00 PM  

Saw this in your tweets conversation with May. I have never thought of making my own tomyam paste. Will give this a try. Thanks you so much! ^^

Posted by Anonymous Anonymous, at Jul 31, 2012, 3:24:00 PM  

Anon: I've never thought of jarring tom yam paste until I made this too. Just like sambal and XO sauce, make in bulk!

Posted by Blogger PickYin, at Aug 1, 2012, 2:16:00 PM  

hi..the 250g chili paste is rpughly from how much dried chillies? tq

Posted by Anonymous Anonymous, at Sep 18, 2012, 4:45:00 PM  

Anon: Try at least 500-600 grams. Dried chilies are pretty light in weight.

Posted by Blogger PickYin, at Sep 18, 2012, 4:52:00 PM  

Hello!

I would like to try your version of Tom Yam. Can I grind all the ingredients mentioned and fry.

Thank you

Posted by Anonymous Anonymous, at Nov 21, 2013, 10:19:00 AM  


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